How to Have a Perfect Winter Getaway in Stellenbosch
As the second oldest town in South Africa, Stellenbosch is steeped in history with national monuments on every corner. At the same time, it is a university town full of hip students hanging out in vibrant cafes with public artworks littered all over the place. And then there’s the wine! The town is surrounded by scenic mountains that are home to vineyards upon vineyards upon vineyards that produce world-class wines enjoyed the world over and also ridiculously beautiful scenery that makes you gasp in awe!
What’s not to love?
While peak tourist season is in the warmer months, this unique town still has so much to offer in winter.
I recently took myself there for a bit of a winter mini-break and I can’t recommend doing this enough. With Visit Stellenbosch's Stay and Play winter offers, there are so many good excuses to give yourself a really affordable mini vacation in this charming town.
*I was a guest of Visit Stellenbosch but all thoughts and opinions are my own.
Where to stay:
Eendracht Hotel and Apartments
Built to look like the other historical houses on Dorp Street, this owner-run establishment feels more like a home than a hotel.
The first construction on this property was a small cottage built in the early 1700s. The property evolved through the years and by the early 1900s it was a hostel for seminary students. Based on what I learnt from reading my placemat at breakfast (seriously), the original Eendracht building was demolished in 1960 to make way for the construction of a hall. When the property was purchased in 1996, the new owners rebuilt the building to look like it did in its previous form.
The result is an inviting hotel full of old-world charm but with modern amenities that you didn’t even know you needed (like a ring light mirror in the bathroom to help you cover up a bruise on your face — more about that later — or a blue light that enables you to see your way to the loo in the middle of the night without properly waking up). It feels like stepping into a time capsule …but with Wi-Fi!
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The Eendracht Hotel & Apartments is part of the Cape Country Routes, a collection of owner-run properties known for their character, charm and romance. |
During the building process, they uncovered some artefacts from the property’s 300-year history, which are now on display in the dining area. So, when you stay here, be sure to check them out and get a little history lesson with your breakfast.
Eendracht is within walking distance of more than 60 restaurants and coffee shops (to keep your caffeine and carb levels at peak vacation mode), all the major museums (not counting the hotel’s artefact display cabinet), more than six art museums/galleries and three theatres. It is the perfect starting point from which to explore Stellenbosch – just don't get lost in the past (or that glass of Stellenbosch Cabernet Sauvignon).
Stay & Play winter price:
R1790 ppn (valid until 15 Sep 2024).
There are also specials available for a variety of other accommodation options in town and on the wine farms beyond it, including Lanzerac (more on that to follow).
Where to Wine and Dine:
De Warenmarkt
This market-like restaurant is a coffee shop, deli, biltong shop, butchery, restaurant, dessert parlour, coworking space, Simonsig Kaapse Vonkel oyster bar and the Simon Wine Emporium all in one. If your meal inspires you, you can even pick up some meat from the butchery section and some wine from the wine shop and try to recreate it yourself when you get home. (If you get it right, I’m single.)
The unusual market-like set-up was inspired by the Cape of Good Hope's legacy as a trading post along the maritime route of the Dutch East India Company. The building itself dates back to the 18th century. Historically, it used to be a courthouse and the area off to the side (where the wine bar is now located) used to be the holding cell.
The wine shop alone showcases 145 wines from 73 members of Stellenbosch Wine Routes, carefully selected by a panel of wine experts and sold to the public at cellar door prices. (Does anyone else think about Donnie Darko whenever they hear the term “cellar door” or is it just me?)
For lunch, I was treated to the winter special. The butternut soup was a creamy dream, followed by a main course of slow-cooked oxtail with fluffy potato mash and seasonal veggies. To finish things off, I indulged in a serving of malva pudding, a South African classic that's basically like a warm hug on a plate. There are other options available for each course.
I also enjoyed a Cap Classique from the Simon Wine Emporium. Even though Cap Classique goes better with oysters (like at the oyster bar), I appreciate that no one judged me for pairing it with oxtail.
Stay and Play winter price:
A three-course meal: R285 per person
A two-course meal: R225 per person
The Manor Kitchen on Lanzerac Wine Estate
As far as wine farms go, Lanzerac is quite the experience. Arriving at the farm at night and driving in towards the main hotel area, one is greeted with an avenue of trees illuminated in red, blue and purple lights. It feels like you’re either entering a unique luxury hotel or an episode of Stranger Things.
As you continue, a Cape Dutch heritage house emerges in the distance — a welcome confirmation that you are very much in Stellenbosch and not “the upside down”.
Nestled in the Jonkershoek Valley, Lanzerac is the epitome of luxury. This historic wine estate dating back to 1692 (yes, that’s really far back!) boasts elegant rooms, stunning views, bars, restaurants, a deli, a tasting venue, a day spa and some other impressive features, all surrounded by lush vineyards and majestic mountains.
I was treated to a three-course meal at The Manor Kitchen. My main course was a mouthwatering smoked fillet paired with roast heirloom carrots, garlic potato purée, beef kaiing, sweetbreads, onion and cabernet jus. And yes, it was as delectable as it sounds. This was complemented with a Mrs English Single Vineyard 2022 Chardonnay on the recommendation of the sommelier. This wine was named after Elizabeth Catherina ‘Kitty’ English, who owned the wine estate for a few years from 1920 until her death in 1929 and was responsible for naming it Lanzerac and advancing viticulture in the area.
For dessert, I had the Nyanbo Chocolate Fondant with chocolate praline, vanilla mousse, salted caramel and blackberry ice cream. And yes, it was every bit as delicious as it sounds.
Under Executive Chef Stephen Fraser who is known for his traditional gourmet dishes, the food was outstanding and the ambience was great too. Diners can watch the chefs at work through a large window at the back of the restaurant, perfect for foodies who like a bit of insight into what goes on in the kitchen. Two large fireplaces keep the room warm and cosy on cold winter nights.
Stay and Play winter price:
Three-course Sunday lunch: R535 per person
Seven-course Friday evening experience menu (including wine): R1100 per person
(Bookings should be made at least 24 hours in advance.)
Ernie Els Wines
For Ernie Els, excellence doesn’t end at the golf course. This world-famous golfer is also part owner of Ernie Els Wines, an impressive wine estate known for its Bordeaux-style blends with Cabernet Sauvignon.
After visiting countless historical wine farms, it's easy to forget that not all of them have been around for centuries. As far as Ernie Els Wines goes, this estate is one of the newer ones. Its maiden vintage was as recent as 2000.
Set on a scenic mountainside with incredible views of vineyards for miles, the drive there alone is worth the trip. Then you are greeted by an outdoor entrance area where you walk through massive boulders and over a bridge across a koi pond to enter the building. Maybe they felt the need to compete with Lanzerac’s blue, purple and red trees but it’s quite the entrance. Inside I was greeted with a welcome drink and the opportunity to browse Ernie Els’s impressive trophy room - a must-see for fans of the golfer.
I was then taken on a tour of the cellars and the various areas where they produce the wine, from where they press the grapes to the giant fermentation chambers and the storage areas.
I can neither confirm nor deny the existence of a secret private cellar that I may or may not have been privileged enough to tour. What private cellar?
After a tour and a tasting, I took a seat on the terrace to be blown away by more breathtaking views. I honestly don’t know how much breath I have left for Stellenbosch to take!
For someone who is not a fan of golf and not the biggest fan of red wine either, I found the experience to be way above par (sorry for the pun). The highlight of the experience was the Canapé Tasting which included a generous pour of their 2017 vintage Ernie Els Signature paired with a Rare Roast Beef, Beetroot Tartare, Crispy Greens & Burnt Aubergine Canapé. This was followed by a Beetroot, Berry and Black Pepper palate cleanser Sorbet.
Directly in front of the terrace where I enjoyed my canapé is a golf tee and a green (at least I think that’s what they’re called). Here you can try your luck at hitting the ball into the hole. If you get a hole-in-one, you win a bottle of some of Ernie Els’s finest wine. Needless to say, I did not win the bottle of wine, I did however nearly win a bill for a light fixture as I came very close to hitting one (even though it was nowhere near the hole) …more than once, in fact.
While the experience left my love of golf unchanged (I will stick to putt-putt, thank you very much), I did gain a new appreciation for red wine and I enjoyed it more than I expected to.
Price:
Canapé Tasting: R395 per person.
What to Do:
While the food and the wine are really all the entertainment one needs when not marvelling at scenic views, over and above this there are still more options for fun things to do:
Guided Art Tour of Stellenbosch with Casa Cerveza
Casa Cerveza is a beerhouse and bistro that also offers mountain biking tours and wine tours by bicycle. They recently started branching out into art tours as well, which can be experienced on foot or by bicycle. I opted to do my tour on foot because I had done a bit of pavement diving the day before my visit to Stellenbosch.
Helpful tip: if you happen to be making a break for your car in the rain and you slip on the pavement, try to catch yourself with your hands instead of your face.
The town of Stellenbosch has a very vibrant art scene with private galleries and public artworks sprinkled all over the place.
The focus of the tour was public art created for the Stellenbosch Triennale, an initiative of the Stellenbosch Outdoor Sculpture Trust, the organisation behind many of the public art exhibitions in Stellenbosch.
Hanlé Hill of the Stellenbosch Triennale and a garden guide for the Dylan Lewis Sculpture Garden accompanied me along with Yomelela and Ongezo, cycle guides from Casa Cervesa currently being trained up to do the art tours.
This year’s exhibition is titled “(Un)Earthed - Exploring contemporary ceramic art in South Africa.” While the actual ceramics are displayed in the Voorgelegen Museum, the exhibition also made use of public display areas, created for last year’s outdoor photographic exhibition, to showcase enlarged images of different facets of the featured ceramics.
Some of my favourite pieces included:
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Untitled by Wim Botha |
Known for using unconventional media, in this one, Wim used mielie meal, ceramic, maize meal, pencil and wood to create a bust.
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"Eye She Hue" by Marlene Steyn |
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"Brothers in Arms" by Ceramic Matters |
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Photos of the ceramics displayed around town |
Also scattered around town is work created for previous exhibitions. One such exhibition was for the Stellenbosch Outdoor Sculpture Trust’s 2017 exhibition featuring creative bike racks with a sculptural twist:
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"Five Things Found" by Marné Viljoen |
In understanding the motivation behind many of Stellenbosch’s artworks, the tour really fosters a new appreciation for it and the town itself. It's kind of like a reverse pub crawl, every stop makes you more cultured instead of less so. (Not that you can't have a post-tour beer at Casa Cerveza to celebrate your newfound appreciation for art and level things out a bit.)
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Our tour group posing with “Monkey Business Bronze” by Wilma Cruise |
Stay and Play winter price:
R350 per hour for the guide
R400 for half-day bike rental (optional)
Other suggested activities:
See the Stellenbosch University Botanical Gardens
The Stellenbosch University Botanical Gardens are a haven of lush greenery and plants. Near the garden entrance was an impressive collection of bonsai trees. I also saw some very unique succulents and some unusual ferns. I loved the lily pond too but mostly, I just really enjoyed the tranquillity.
Price:
Entrance is just R15.
Visit Oom Samie Se Winkel
As someone who likes quirky attractions and off-beat points of interest, Oom Samie Se Winkel has been on my South African bucket list for a while now. (Not as long as the Bathurst Pineapple but I WILL make it there one day. That’s the dream!) I was excited to finally see this fascinating piece of history on Dorp Street.
Oom Samie Se Winkel is a historical general store that’s been around since 1904. It is part museum, part operational shop. It is a quirky spot that preserves the memory of a traditional trading post with handmade goods, traditional confectionary, spices and teas, vintage collectables, local crafts, the odd hunting trophy, various souvenirs, and …okay, some interesting display items:
But that’s all part of why this living museum is definitely worth a visit!
Shop in the Quaint Boutiques
Stellenbosch is home to a plethora of charming boutiques offering everything from fashion to home décor. There are also a lot of art galleries and craft stores.
Someone clearly heard about my fall and created an artistic rendition of what I had done in the hours before my visit. I’m not going to lie, I found this display window a bit triggering:
Other suggestions:
Visit Stellenbosch has some other suggestions for winter activities, as well as dining and accommodation options, on their Stay and Play site. From spa appointments to wine tastings, adventure activities to picking your own lavender and more, head there for some inspiration and start planning your escape. (Quickly: These specials last until 15 September.)
And if you’re not from the Western Cape, Travelstart is running a special where you can enjoy up to R1,000 off when you book a package deal with them that includes flights to Cape Town and a minimum two-night stay in Stellenbosch.
Having travelled to Stellenbosch for a mini winter vacation, I don’t understand why more people don’t do this. With its blend of luxurious accommodations, exciting dining options, and so many indoor and outdoor activities, you’re in for a memorable experience. I guess you could say I fell hard for Stellenbosch (even before I got there)!
And if you need more time to plan your stay in Stellies, find out What to Do in Stellenbosch this Summer here.
Wow, this sounds amazing! Do you need a car in Stellenbosch or can you get around on foot?
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