Hiking in the Knysna Forest in Search of the Legendary Elephants
The Knysna Forest makes for a hiking experience quite unlike any other. Between the natural beauty and the mystery that surrounds it, it’s perfect for nature enthusiasts, adventure seekers and weirdos like me who are always looking for something a bit different. Whether you’re hoping for a serene walk under the canopy, a physical challenge or an almost impossible encounter with an elusive practically mythological creature, it’s the place to go.
Why Hike the Knysna Forest
While it has been exploited for timber since the 18th century, most of what remains of the Knysna Forest is now protected as part of Garden Route National Park.
Known for its dense shrubbery, the ecosystem here is unlike anything else in South Africa. If you enjoy hiking or trail running, the uniqueness of this landscape makes for quite the change in scenery. The shade also makes it a very pleasant place to work up a sweat and, if you’re like me, maintain your non-tan.
Personally though, I wasn’t really in it for the shrubbery and the way the light filters through the leaves in a way that feels magical (especially when you come from a place with a grassland biome like Johannesburg). I like nature. But I really like strange and unusual experiences so I wanted to find an elephant! …while simultaneously being afraid of actually finding one.
The Legend of the Knysna Forest Elephants
One of the reasons that the Knysna Forest is steeped in so much mystery and legend is due to the tales of the elusive Knysna elephants. There are theories that there is only one, there are other theories that there is a small herd, but there is definitely evidence of elephant life in this forest. They are just so elusive that they are practically the stuff of myth. Despite the fact that this terrain is an incredibly unusual habitat for an elephant to reside in, no one can find it/them. There have been sightings but they are extremely rare.
As someone who has a somewhat concerning obsession with unicorns at my advanced age, I will take any opportunity to go in search of a mythical creature of any sort. When I worked on cruise ships, I was stuck on board the day we docked in Inverness so I never got to go with my friends to Loch Ness to see if I could find the monster. Together with my failed attempts to find trolls in Norway, I was excited about the prospect of trying to find the not-so-mythical-but-almost Knysna Elephant.
Considering it is basically South Africa’s equivalent of the Loch Ness Monster, perhaps instead of “Nessy” we should nickname it/them “Nelly”?
The “Circles in a Forest” Trails
The Legacy of Dalene Matthee
At the entrance to the “Circles in a Forest” trails — It feels wrong to say that in English — is a monument that honours Dalene Matthee. The famous South African author wrote extensively about the Knysna Forest in her books, one of which was titled “Kringe in ’n Bos”, meaning “Circles in a Forest”. Back in the 90s or early 2000s, I had to read this book for high school Afrikaans class. I don't remember much from High school (I try to repress those memories as much as possible) but standing at this monument, I wished I could. Dalene Matthee was a much-loved South African author.
Choosing Your Trail
There were two types of people in the group I was traveling with, those with a thirst for adventure, and those with a hunger for content. Fortunately, there are also two “Circles in a Forest” trails, one 3.2km in length and one 9km. So while some of the others did the 3km route that involved lots of selfie stops, I did the 9km trail …and took selfies en route!
You do not need a guide to do either, just don’t stray from the paths - this forest is dense and if they can’t find the elephants they’re also unlikely to be able to find you.
Difficulty Levels:
The 3.2km route is an easy, relatively level walk that doesn't require much fitness.
The 9km route does have some relatively gentle gradients, and you have to watch your footing when crossing the river via stepping stones but it is still not a very challenging hike.
The scenery on both trails is quite similar, except the 9km trail will take you down to this river:
Did we find an elephant?
At first, there were no signs of any elephants. But we did find some other Knysna Forest animals:
- Some birds
- Two trail runners
- A buck (Well, I didn’t actually see it but my walking companion went a bit ahead of me and did.)
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| This bird doesn't count because we brought him with us |
And then at one point, we heard a very strange sound coming from a few meters away from us. We couldn’t see anything through the dense shrubbery. We stopped and listened for a while. There were definitely at least two of whatever it was having something of a conversation. We even did an audio recording that we sent to some game ranger we knew to help us identify it. (Everyone knows one, right?) He never replied.
After a few minutes we continued on our walk because we couldn’t stay there forever — we had appointments for massages at the Turbine Hotel & Spa later that day!
But was it an elephant?
I’m going to be honest and admit that I don’t believe that it was. It didn’t sound like an elephant so it was probably a unicorn. Think about it: If everyone is looking for an elephant, it's the perfect place for a magical single-horned pony to hide!
Either way, the experience was amazing. I feel like I got my black belt — or rather a green belt — in forest bathing and was rewarded with a next-level endorphin rush. I may have ended up with a blister but I definitely earned the right to eat more cheesecake with lunch back at the Turbine Hotel before my massage. Nature-inspired endorphins + cheesecake + a massage = Talk about all the elements of a great day!
Best Time to Visit the Knysna Forest
I have only visited Knysna in July so I can’t comment on the rest of the year, but there doesn’t seem to be a bad time of year to go. The winters are pleasantly temperate. July is the coldest month where the temperatures are between 9 and 22 degrees Celsius (50 and 72 degrees Fahrenheit). February is the hottest month with temperatures between 18 and 29 degrees Celsius (65 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit.)
Knysna is a popular holiday destination in the summer months, especially December. The Knysna Oyster Festival also draws visitors from all over the country in July. And the Knysna Forest Marathon coincides with the Oyster Festival where about 6000 people come together to run through the forest. So if you’d like a LOT of company, that would be the best time.
Ticket Prices
Permits are required to enter the Garden Route National Park. The price for a South African adult at the time of my visit was around R50. It would have been R190 (Roughly $10 USD) if I had been foreign. Prices can be found here.
What to Pack
- Water
- Sunscreen - yes, it’s shady but still!
- Comfortable walking shoes
- Layers - The mornings can be quite chilly but you will likely warm up as you go.
Getting There
The best way to get around Knysna if you don’t have your own transport is by rental car.
The group I was with was driven by Ford in a Ford Everest 3.0 V6 Platinum and the way it handled the rough terrain added to the adventure. It was nice to see the tall trees through the sunroof, there were plenty of cup holders for the water we needed for our hike and the 12-inch touchscreen for our GPS helped us find the right location.
Speaking of which, a link to the starting point location for this Knysna Forest walk can be found here.
Nearby Attractions
- If you're looking for accommodation in the area, try The Turbine Hotel and Spa.
- And if you’re up for a different type of adventure, try sailing through the Knysna Heads with Ocean Sailing Charters (More on this to follow soon.)
And if you're lucky enough to spot an elephant, please let me know?
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Read The Sharonicles' guide to Knysna here:
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