Where to Stay, Play & Eat in Barrydale: 15+ Things to Do in This Quirky Town Near Cape Town
Barrydale might be South Africa’s quirkiest small town - and I mean that as the highest compliment! Located on the R62 (a popular road for road trips in the Western Cape) in the Karoo, I’ve been hearing about this place since I moved to Cape Town. My friends have described it as arty, a little odd, and full of interesting people - Sounds exactly like my kind of place!
My soft spot for colourful, offbeat, character-filled places is no secret, and after driving through it last year and stopping only for lunch, I became aware that this is not just a place for a short stop on your way elsewhere, it deserves a longer stay. It’s been sitting at the very top of my South African road trip bucket list ever since. I recently spent two nights here, which was nowhere near enough time to fully absorb its beautiful weirdness.
Whether you’re looking for things to do, places to eat, or somewhere fabulous to stay, here’s my guide to the best of Barrydale… so far. (I’ll be back. Obviously.)
Things to Do in Barrydale
Yamu Botanicals
Yamu Botanicals is an olive farm where two people, Yvette and Thornton, cultivate and harvest indigenous plants to regenerate the land and develop medicinal products at the same time. Here, you can do a garden walk through the rehabilitated olive farm and learn about regenerative farming and fynbos. Then you can sample their products in the form of a tincture tasting. All the tinctures are made with plants and have different medicinal purposes. And a lot of them taste great in soda water …like a virgin G&T minus the “G” and the “T”.
Go for a Hike
If you like being out in nature, you’re in luck. Our group went for an early morning hike with some of the Karoo Art Hotel team near the Tradouw Pass. The landscape and views were truly beautiful, and it was a great way to start the day. Then we had a short group meditation, before we swam in a natural pool. By “we” I mean another lady in my group and all 10 of my toes! We warmed up post-swim with some hot coffee and homemade rusks. 10/10 for moral support!
Joseph Barry Brandy Tasting
For the Capetonians who have had more wine tastings than they can remember (like me - and, yes, I was completely teetotal when I moved here), Barrydale offers something a little different. It is home to the Joseph Barry distillery, which is one of South Africa's leading craft brandy distilleries. It is named after the same man that the town is named after, a British settler, who settled in the Cape Colony in 1817 and helped develop the brandy industry at the time, among his many other entrepreneurial pursuits.
The spirit produced here is technically more of a cognac than brandy, but as it does not come from the Cognac region of France, it cannot hold that title. France said no. - But don’t mix it with Coke! It’s too fancy for that! It is made with South African wine varietals and has won many international awards. Here you can do a brandy and chocolate tasting for R120 (or just the brandy tasting for R70).
Barrydale Hand Weavers
Also based at the distillery is the Barrydale Hand Weavers. In today’s world, where so much stuff is mass-produced and imported, there’s something really special about locally handmade products. Here you can go into their factory, a large room filled with looms, see the weavers at work, and speak to them about their craft. From baby blankets to towels, table linen to scarves, rugs to cushion covers, and more, they craft a wide range of products. You can see the different textiles they are creating and what goes into making the contrasting textures and patterns.
They may also let you try your hand at weaving. They let me. And then probably regretted it.
There’s also a factory shop at their Weavery, where you can buy discounted products with “faults” (so the one thing that I worked on).
The Tradouw Pass
A drive through the Tradouw Pass is an absolute must if you’re in Barrydale. It’s more breathtaking than it is quirky, but if you play your cards right, you might convince Rick Melvill (one of the owners of the Karoo Art Hotel) to chauffeur you there in Sputnik, the iconic 1980s Rolls-Royce often sighted outside the hotel that has driven the likes of Fokofpolisiekar and Helen Zille. He might even make you a G&T for the road. What an experience! But I’ve never been so afraid of spilling a drink in my life!
Watch a Movie or a Show at the Karoo Art Hotel
The Karoo Art Hotel showcases art in all its forms, including cinema and live shows. They have a historical event hall decked out for performances and other events. It is filled with art, fairy lights, and some brightly coloured settees. The gallery overlooking it is now home to a cinema. While there were no events in the hall during my short stay, I did get to watch some shorts in the cinema, complete with little boxes of popcorn. Check out their website or social media for their event program, see a show, and stay for dinner.
Talk to the Residents
From Ruben, the musician at the Karoo Art Hotel bar, who got sick of the corporate life, gave three quarters of his stuff to hospice, and moved to Barry Dale with his wife and dog, 10 years ago, to Mo who was one of the first people of colour in the South African airforce, to Yvette from Yamu botanicals who turns golf courses back into wild fynbos, and the book store owner who won’t sell you a book if he doesn’t like you, this town is a magnet for interesting characters.
I met so many fascinating people in 48 hours! There’s something about this town that just seems to call a certain type of person. After a few hours here, you may be tempted to join them.
Barrydale Shops
Magpie Art Collective
Just across the road from the Karoo Art Hotel, you will find the Magpie Art Collective, an inspiring upcycled/found object art studio that makes you wonder, “What am I even doing with my life?” and “Seriously, what is ampoule couture?” (It’s a type of beaded decoration that you hang on a light bulb, by the way, and, yes, I want one.) Even the Building is upcycled as it was previously a co-op. They buy nothing but create art from waste and other found materials. It’s colourful and quirky and so inspiring.
House of Books
The House of Books is a book shop with what is actually a misleading name, as it takes up not one but two houses. The owner, Anton de Villiers, is an interesting character full of many fascinating anecdotes about books and the people he has met in his store. But be warned that if he doesn’t like you, he may refuse to sell you anything. His collection is impressive, and if you really want to make his day, take some books with you to donate. This is the type of shop you could get lost in, and I’m sure there are many treasures that you can discover here if you just take the time to look.
Papa Joe’s Collectables
This is an antique shop (mostly) on the R62. From antique farming implements to cameras, sewing machines, and homeware, to newer items like toys and souvenir T-shirts, and umbrellas suspended from the ceiling, this is just an interesting place to shop. Whatever you do, don’t miss the extensive fairy ornament collection displayed (but definitely not for sale) behind the counter!
Ou Kerk
This is also an antique shop. You might not find an epic fairy collection or a sign that says “Warning F-bombs dropping” as you would at Papa Joe’s, but the location adds another reason to visit. The shop is based in Barrydale’s oldest church building. It dates back to 1877.
Die Langhuis
Die Langhuis is a store and cafe with bed & breakfast cottages on site. The main building, ‘Die Langhuis’ (long house), dates back to 1865. The antiques, homeware, and gift items on sale are exquisite, but the tea room is going on the Pinterest board of my soul. Birdcages, brightly coloured ginger jars, and plants line the room, while sunlight pours in through large windows. In the centre stands a grand table draped with a floral tablecloth, its centrepiece a mix of candlesticks and vases, each holding a single flower. I’m convinced tea tastes better in a room this beautiful. It's science!
Where to Eat in Barrydale
Apart from Die Langhuis, which is also home to a beautiful tearoom, you can also dine here:
Diesel and Crème
For lunch, try Diesel and Crème on the R62. Not only are their burgers and milkshakes quite legendary, but they also have an impressive collection of kewpie dolls and rubber ducks of every sort imaginable. Dine inside under a carousel horse and dried flowers suspended from the ceiling, or outside with a view of a graveyard for carousel ride car creatures. If you’re like me, you will be so busy staring at the dozen or so of them, lying there in rows with paint chipping off their seats and strange animal faces, that you might not notice that there is an airplane suspended a storey above the ground like the world’s most impractical gazebo.
What’s also disturbing is how good the milkshakes are. I don’t know how I missed the fact that there’s a lemon meringue flavoured milkshake as well as a peppermint crisp tart flavour, but I was emotionally unprepared for this. I need to go back there immediately. All the food is crazy good, and their burgers are great too.
It’s the perfect place to fill up on a road trip - but only your stomach, not your petrol tank - the vintage petrol pumps are just for show.
Karoo Art Hotel
This hotel is home to a restaurant, a bar (that serves tasty pub food), and a coffee shop. Try the tea and scones!
Where to stay in Barrydale
Karoo Art Hotel
The Karoo Art Hotel is a three-dimensional work of art that you can sleep in. The public areas are literally an art gallery, but the hotel also celebrates the arts of live entertainment, cinema, Karoo country cuisine, the Barrydale to-do list, and the art of the welcome. As an owner-run and managed boutique hotel and a member of the Cape Country Routes, there’s something really warm and magical about this quirky and colourful place.
Full hotel review coming tomorrow: Watch this space!
Road Tripping the R62
The R62 is South Africa’s answer to the Route 66. It is a main road that joins Cape Town to Port Elizabeth, going through a number of interesting small towns along the way. It goes through the Klein Karoo, a semi-arid region, known for its wine, ostriches, and scenery. Other highlights include: Montagu, Calitzdorp, Oudtshoorn, Ladismith, McGregor, Bonnievale, Robertson, and others.
I was fortunate enough to experience this road in the Ford Ranger Raptor. It comes with a long list of impressive features, including a 292kW 3.0-litre V6 Turbo Petrol Engine, Performance Fox Suspension, a 12.4-inch digital instrument cluster, and selectable drive modes that allow you to switch between them to handle various conditions.
It was very comfortable, handled different kinds of terrain exceptionally well, and, although I may not have the best understanding of how these features affect the car’s performance, I know it’s an incredibly impressive vehicle, as evidenced by the envious stares of other drivers. We got quite a lot of attention when we stopped anywhere.
Stop at Van Loveren Family Vineyards on the Way Home
If you enjoyed the Cape Country Routes hospitality of the Karoo Art Hotel, be sure to stop at Van Loveren in Robertson on your way back to Cape Town, a wine estate in their portfolio. As a three-generation family-owned winery, not only is it scenically beautiful, but it also carries a certain warmth.
They offer quite an extensive range of different wine pairings. From the ‘Taste of Chardonnay’ to the “Taste of Africa - All About Pinotage”, to the Christina Master Tasting, presented in elegant stemware, and all paired with tasty treats, it’s hard to choose. The "Almost Zero" de-alcoholised wines are great for the designated driver (or just the former teetotaller-turned wine farm connoisseur temporarily regressing to her former ways). It’s one step up from the kids' pairing, but you still get to feel like an adult.
Pair it with a wood-fired pizza at Christina’s Bistro to ease the pain of returning to reality.
Is Barrydale Worth Visiting?
Absolutely. If you like small towns with character, it should be high on your bucket list. The town was recently named South Africa’s small town of the year by The Daily Maverick, and it’s not hard to see why. I loved the time I spent here, and I am planning my return as I write this.
The Best time of year to visit Barrydale
December and January are the peak of summer in South Africa, and it’s also the time when most locals have time off work to go on holiday. Barrydale is popular this time of year, but as it is in the Karoo (a semi-desert region), it gets very hot. Barrydale’s weather gets quite cold in the winter (especially in June and July) with snow falling on the surrounding mountains, but the town can still make for a cosy escape. There is no“wrong” time of year to go, but Spring (August to October) and Autumn (March to May) are considered the best times to go for temperate conditions.
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